I am having to come to terms with the fact I may have ruined Hawaii forever for us.
We are here...in this beautiful place...without any tourists.
And it. Is. Freaking. Awesome. They don’t want me to say that. ***I would also note the quarantine is serious. To me it was worth not leaving where we were and we were super lucky to be where we were....but 2 weeks is a long time to go no where so come if you can but know it’s not something you could skip out on if you are contemplating.
We are coming up on a month of being here. To be honest I have been here a few times, in fact this island is the first place Todd and I went, first time we left continental US in 2003. We’ve been to the other islands, but Kauai was always my favorite. It’s small, feels somehow undiscovered. No building can be higher than a palm tree. This place is off the charts beautiful. There’s a reason the Nāpali coast is the picture on a wall in every travel agency office.
It’s a green giant rising almost in defiance of gravity from the sea. Seemingly ancient and yet clearly vulnerable to the charms of time, water having carved dramatic flying buttresses into the sea.
Jurassic Park, Fantasy Island, Lord of the Flies, King King, Indiana Jones, and countless others have opened to scenes of this landscapes here.
The other beautiful part of it is it’s almost impossible to see. There is no road to that area of the island. So your options are simple: boat(no boats right now), helicopter(no helicopters right now), or “the most dangerous hiking trail in the world.”
I’ve hiked a fair amount. And still roll my eyes at this distinction but I’ll get back to why that’s the case later.
Ordinarily you have to get a pass or ticket to even get to the trail. A few years ago they decided the trail was being “loved to death” and in a hope to both limit and dissuade people from using it they implemented this policy.
I also understand on a practical level there is basically one road around Kauai. The road to the trail is the end of the road and goes through two quaint towns, kids playing, small schools and churches, currently no tourists clogging the street so it’s ideal, but miles of home made signs warning not to park and to drive slowly echo what I know, this is not what normally greats people here, normally, it’s a zoo.
Shuttle parking lots, closed off with nothing but the fleet of rental cars no one’s driving and the airport cannot not park, and no traffic on the 4 single(ya one car at a time) lane bridges you cross. An almost empty parking lot greets you and the empty ticket/ pass booth remind us how fortunate we are, people plan for months even years to come here, we woke up and drove here....two days in a row....because we up and decided to.
Day one I took all 4. Again like all our adventures basically no one wanted to go. Except maybe Austin who seems determined to see all the waterfalls we can on this island. We start up the trail past KeKe beach. It’s beautiful with a coral reef protecting a small bay. As you climb up past the tall trees decorated with vines and lined by lava rocks the true beauty of it emerges. Semicircles of coral seem to float just below the surface of the aquamarine waters. We stopped and took a picture. It’s here you first realize-only if you’re looking- what all the fuss about the trail being dangerous is about...Its a long way down, and down is a sheer cliff face disguised by lush greenery stretching for the sky. What looks like bushes on the edge of the trail you now realize are the tops of trees that are 30,40, even 60’ tall. And that, that is where you’d bounce if you fell. You’d keep bouncing until you reached the ocean below you some 400+ feet. Most people fall taking pictures. There is not 1 but 2 helicopter pad on the 2 mile route in for emergency evacuations.
Wrapping around the buttresses the trail winds up and down crossing several streams each turn gives you glimpses down the spectacular coastline.
After 2 miles of ups, downs, and arounds the trail you round a corner and see what the goal for most is....a beach you cannot use because it too will kill you. It is universally agreed upon as the most dangerous beach in Hawaii. It looks perfect and I mean perfect. Crystal blue water crashes into white sand. But as you approach the sound the waves make as they crash into the sand is startling. Every once in a while as if someone claps their hands you hear and almost feel the force the waves hit the sand. Then as you watch you can see from above the real hazard. There is an extremely strong almost constant rip currant. The only tell being the small trail of sand being drug out to sea at an alarming pace. The statistics are scarce but I remember being here 18 years ago and there being a list of names of the drowned on a board there. That’s gone and whether intentional or not it’s hard to know the stats on the beach but I did find the fact that 15 people have downed and they never found their bodies...so there’s that. And that, the missing bodies, is the statistic that kept my kids from the water, they were less concerned with the waves more with the bodies. Anyhow we stayed off the beach. It was here we had to choose. Carry on another 2 miles inland to a waterfall? Or stop. Austin was a hard yes, Hannah and Sierra were maybes but already showing signs of cracking with complaints about feet etc. Jackson was quiet but the moment we started into the forest he sat down to inspect a toe and I knew that I didn’t not have it in me to drag the 4 of them back, plus (to further worry my mother) it was going to rain I knew that afternoon, remember all the streams we crossed? Along with all the other warnings it’s made very clear that if and when it rains they become rivers-the other way to die is to get literally swept out to sea. So with complaining and now time being a factor we aborted. So I told Austin we’d come back tomorrow. We settled on swimming in the stream which was fun. Then hiked the long 2 miles back to the truck(ya I rented a truck because I’m trying to blend in, only they gave me a bright red one.). Sierra did the entirety of the trail back in bare feet, Jackson shirtless. 4 miles and we were almost to Lord of the Flies status. Austin beat us back. Mainly to get the mud and sweat off of us we took a plunge at KeKe beach.
The next day Austin and I set out via the same route this time determined to tackle the water fall. The hike proceeded the same, we once again crossed the main river and this time made a sharp left turn inland. The trail completely changed. Towering cliffs were replaced with shaded groves of bamboo, palm trees, and vines that blocked out the sun. The strange new sounds of the jungle drown out the sound of the ocean behind you. The trail switchbacks over the creek 5-6 times. Each time you weigh the risk of slipping off a rock and going all the way in with just sucking it up and putting your feet into the more stable creek bed below. I did not want wet feet, so I like an uncoordinated ballerina danced across the rocks. At one point a large 10’ tall or so smoothed bolder had to be scaled up to the trail at the top. I’d had a fleeting thought how easy it would be to slip off but kept going. A few moments later my mom radar suggested I turn around. Just in time to see a drenched Austin emerge from the creek below. Thankfully he’s bounced off the rock to a deep part of the water. I asked him if he was ok to which he grunted “ya” as he sloshed by me. We passed one group leaving and would catch glimpses of the white water spraying down the green face of the mountain. Up and over more boulders and we were there, an emerald pool of water, a towering waterfall of white lace showering down into it, black lava rocks offset by the brightest and darkest greens you can imagine, and we’re alone. A vertical green Cliff face on 3 sides. Totally alone.
Like Magic.
We kind of just sat there and took it in for a long time. The world is beautiful and I’ve been to a lot of amazing places. This place has to be #1. There’s just too much and the culmination of colors sounds and the magic of feeling like you were being held in this valley like they were the hands of the earth was pretty epic.
Ok dramatic reenactment over. Austin asked if he could swim under the falls. Sure I said. The water was not warm. And approaching the falls is like I imagine approaching a car wash. The force of the wind was enough so he didn’t make it totally under it but got close enough.
We tracked the 4 miles back. This time too tired to even go to the beach to clean off.
We drove back to our house in almost silence. It was a long and magical day.
